Nicaraguan Mass
Transit…. El Don survives the “Chicken” Bus:
Public transportation, Nicaraguan style… the best deal go’n.
I needed to travel from Granada to Ometepe Island to
visit the coffee farm. By car it is
Granada to Rivas(1.5 hours), Rivas to San Jorge(10min), ferry reservations for
the car and crossing to the island(1.25 hours), drive on the island(30 min). In the interest of supporting our lack of
paychecks, I decided that I needed to investigate an inexpensive mode of transportation…and
did I ever.
Tamara and I researched the location and times of the
buses from Granada to Rivas to San Jorge…not as easy as it might sound but we
got an approximation of the schedule. The next day, I managed my way to the bus stop
in the early morning to get a good seat, arriving 10 minutes early. Got a great seat, but was sweating like a pig
as it was 95 degrees and no air circulation on the bus, and I walked very fast
to get there….my luck, everyone had a seat with just a few standing. Once the bus got moving, the air-conditioning
(open windows) kicked in to full. I
would almost call it an express bus, as it really never stops for people to get
in…it just slows as people jump in the front and back(emergency exit)
doors. It does, almost come to a stop
if more than 1 person wants to get off.
Amazingly enough, the guy walking around to collect money keeps pretty
good track of who still needs to pay…and he also makes a little money on the
side by overcharging gingos(me)…as he returned my change less 1 cordoba. The bus fair was 27 cordoba’s for the 1.5
hour journey…approximately $1.17 A GREAT VALUE.
And…if you would like something to eat…the street vendors hop on and sell a variety of home-made treats…none
of which my crystal stomach could risk….but it all looked
great(interesting). The vendors would
get on the bus, make their rounds, get off and then to the next bus that comes
along.
Why do they call it the “Chicken” bus?
Well…my ride down to Rivas did not offer any clues, but
the return trip did. Returning after my
3 day visit to Ometepe, I caught the return bus from Rivas to Granada. I just made the 3pm bus as it was pulling out….rush
hour…standing room only. That is ok…more
air-conditioning and less warm-body contact for the standing passengers.
OK, back to the “Chicken” bus name…
Well, could it be the lady sitting down to my right… with
her two kids, one sleeping mashed against the window, the other sucking on a
fully exposed engorged breast….Nope, no clues there.
Well, on my left was a bit better clue….it took me about 30
minutes to notice, but the lady sitting to my left had a purse in her lap….no,
wait a minute, it was not a purse…it was…a pet “Chicken”! Gently stroking the precious pet…and….wait-a-minute…NO,
….YES….she has (2) chickens in her lap…Do ya think…could this really be…”The
Chicken Bus”. Yep….I gotta agree this
was a sure thing.
The bus ride was fun and exciting…and pretty darn
comfortable…I was VERY surprised.
OK…all-in-all…I think the public transportation in Nicaragua
may top the Seattle bus system…? A few
thoughts:
1.
Timing: They DO leave on time.
2.
Miss the bus: If you arrive a few minutes late…you
can chase the bus…it does not stop, just like Seattle, but the back
door(Emergency Exit) opens…and if you can run and jump in…you are golden. Ya gotta watch out for the low clearance of
the door, as I found out on Ometepe Island, by hitting my head solidly on the
doorway cutting my head and compressing some back vertebra, OUCH!
3.
Economics: Traveling for 4 days over 300 miles,
I spent less than $5
4.
Fellow passengers: At no point did I see anyone slobbering
on themselves, or anyone smelling like urine, or anyone talking to themselves
or anyone that looked like an axe murderer.
5.
Concessions on the bus: Eating and drinking on the bus? Bring it on…Homemade treats, drinks…glorious
stuff…maybe someday I will try it.
6.
Efficiency…If you are getting on the bus, yah
better get on, or the bus keeps going. If
you are disabled, don’t worry…several strong, handsome Nicaraguan youths will
grab you and lift in in the back…without delay.
If you are elderly and have 5 baskets of groceries, no worries… the guys
got yah covered. A bicycle or a goat…no
problem, up on the top of the bus they go.
7.
Entertainment…with all this action going on…I
almost wanted to stay on the bus.
8.
“Bus-Stops”….forget it. Yah want to get on the bus, wave your arm and
get ready to Run-and-Jump, when the bus slows down. Well, there are some formal ones too.
9.
Chivalry: A woman, especially elderly, gets on
the bus….yep, Men actually offer their seats and compete for the opportunity to
stand. Some women accept, other just
smile and would prefer to stand.
10.
The need for Speed: And no, I don’t think there
are any speed limits….at least not any enforced.
