The "Chicken" Bus? Nicaraguan Mass-Transit

Nicaraguan Mass Transit…. El Don survives the “Chicken” Bus:

Public transportation, Nicaraguan style… the best deal go’n.

I needed to travel from Granada to Ometepe Island to visit the coffee farm.  By car it is Granada to Rivas(1.5 hours), Rivas to San Jorge(10min), ferry reservations for the car and crossing to the island(1.25 hours), drive on the island(30 min).  In the interest of supporting our lack of paychecks, I decided that I needed to investigate an inexpensive mode of transportation…and did I ever.

Tamara and I researched the location and times of the buses from Granada to Rivas to San Jorge…not as easy as it might sound but we got an approximation of the schedule.   The next day, I managed my way to the bus stop in the early morning to get a good seat, arriving 10 minutes early.  Got a great seat, but was sweating like a pig as it was 95 degrees and no air circulation on the bus, and I walked very fast to get there….my luck, everyone had a seat with just a few standing.  Once the bus got moving, the air-conditioning (open windows) kicked in to full.   I would almost call it an express bus, as it really never stops for people to get in…it just slows as people jump in the front and back(emergency exit) doors.   It does, almost come to a stop if more than 1 person wants to get off.  Amazingly enough, the guy walking around to collect money keeps pretty good track of who still needs to pay…and he also makes a little money on the side by overcharging gingos(me)…as he returned my change less 1 cordoba.  The bus fair was 27 cordoba’s for the 1.5 hour journey…approximately $1.17 A GREAT VALUE.  And…if you would like something to eat…the street vendors hop  on and sell a variety of home-made treats…none of which my crystal stomach could risk….but it all looked great(interesting).  The vendors would get on the bus, make their rounds, get off and then to the next bus that comes along.

Why do they call it the “Chicken” bus? 

Well…my ride down to Rivas did not offer any clues, but the return trip did.  Returning after my 3 day visit to Ometepe, I caught the return bus from Rivas to Granada.  I just made the 3pm bus as it was pulling out….rush hour…standing room only.  That is ok…more air-conditioning and less warm-body contact for the standing passengers. 

OK, back to the “Chicken” bus name…

Well, could it be the lady sitting down to my right… with her two kids, one sleeping mashed against the window, the other sucking on a fully exposed engorged breast….Nope, no clues there. 

Well, on my left was a bit better clue….it took me about 30 minutes to notice, but the lady sitting to my left had a purse in her lap….no, wait a minute, it was not a purse…it was…a pet “Chicken”!  Gently stroking the precious pet…and….wait-a-minute…NO, ….YES….she has (2) chickens in her lap…Do ya think…could this really be…”The Chicken Bus”.  Yep….I gotta agree this was a sure thing.

The bus ride was fun and exciting…and pretty darn comfortable…I was VERY surprised.

OK…all-in-all…I think the public transportation in Nicaragua may top the Seattle bus system…?  A few thoughts:

1.       Timing: They DO leave on time.

2.       Miss the bus: If you arrive a few minutes late…you can chase the bus…it does not stop, just like Seattle, but the back door(Emergency Exit) opens…and if you can run and jump in…you are golden.   Ya gotta watch out for the low clearance of the door, as I found out on Ometepe Island, by hitting my head solidly on the doorway cutting my head and compressing some back vertebra, OUCH!

3.       Economics: Traveling for 4 days over 300 miles, I spent less than $5

4.       Fellow passengers: At no point did I see anyone slobbering on themselves, or anyone smelling like urine, or anyone talking to themselves or anyone that looked like an axe murderer.

5.       Concessions on the bus:  Eating and drinking on the bus?  Bring it on…Homemade treats, drinks…glorious stuff…maybe someday I will try it.

6.       Efficiency…If you are getting on the bus, yah better get on, or the bus keeps going.  If you are disabled, don’t worry…several strong, handsome Nicaraguan youths will grab you and lift in in the back…without delay.  If you are elderly and have 5 baskets of groceries, no worries… the guys got yah covered.  A bicycle or a goat…no problem, up on the top of the bus they go.

7.       Entertainment…with all this action going on…I almost wanted to stay on the bus.

8.       “Bus-Stops”….forget it.  Yah want to get on the bus, wave your arm and get ready to Run-and-Jump, when the bus slows down.  Well, there are some formal ones too.

9.       Chivalry: A woman, especially elderly, gets on the bus….yep, Men actually offer their seats and compete for the opportunity to stand.  Some women accept, other just smile and would prefer to stand.

10.   The need for Speed: And no, I don’t think there are any speed limits….at least not any enforced.